How Chagusaba Farming Creates Premium Ceremonial Matcha in Shizuoka

Premium Ceremonial Matcha and the Chagusaba Method in Shizuoka: How Traditional Farming Sustains Exceptional Quality

Introduction: Why "Premium Ceremonial Matcha" Is a Useful (If Inexact) Term

In the Western market, the term "Premium Ceremonial Matcha" has become a popular shorthand for describing high-quality matcha intended for drinking rather than cooking. While it lacks formal regulation in Japan, this term signals a distinct standard in color, flavor, and production method. Within the industry, it usually refers to matcha made from first-harvest, shade-grown tea leaves, carefully processed into tencha and stone-milled into an ultra-fine powder.

In this article, we focus on a traditional farming technique— the Chagusaba Method —and its role in producing premium ceremonial matcha in Shizuoka Prefecture , Japan’s largest tea-growing region. The goal is to connect traditional agricultural wisdom with sensory excellence and chemical composition, helping tea consumers understand what lies behind the matcha in their bowls.

What Is Chagusaba Farming?

The Definition and Origins of the Chagusaba Method

Chagusaba (茶草地) farming refers to a traditional agroforestry system in which tea fields are maintained in tandem with surrounding grasslands. Farmers cut native grasses, such as susuki (Miscanthus sinensis) and sasa (bamboo grass), dry them, and spread them as mulch between tea rows.

This practice, dating back hundreds of years, originated in Kakegawa, Shizuoka , and was designated a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS) by the FAO in 2013. It serves multiple ecological and agronomic purposes:

  • Improves soil microbial activity and organic content

  • Suppresses weeds naturally, reducing pesticide use

  • Retains warmth and moisture during early spring

  • Encourages biodiversity in the surrounding ecosystem

Chagusaba farming
photo by Otsuka Seicha

Why Chagusaba Still Matters Today

Modern mechanized farming often sacrifices soil health and flavor in favor of yield. The Chagusaba Method deliberately resists this logic. It is labor-intensive, slower, and more ecologically integrated. For matcha producers, this method directly influences the chemical profile of the tea, particularly the L-theanine-to-catechin ratio , which governs umami vs. bitterness.

The Role of Chagusaba in Premium Ceremonial Matcha Production

Shizuoka’s Climate and Chagusaba’s Synergy with Terroir

While Uji in Kyoto often dominates the conversation about ceremonial matcha, Shizuoka offers unique environmental advantages. Particularly in the Ohayashi Highlands of Kakegawa , a combination of fog, volcanic soil, and altitude creates ideal conditions. When Chagusaba is applied here, its benefits are magnified:

  • Fog reduces UV exposure, naturally encouraging L-theanine retention

  • Grass mulch increases soil temperature, enhancing nutrient uptake

  • The presence of native flora and fauna stabilizes the tea ecosystem

First Harvest + Shade = Matcha Potential

The premium ceremonial matcha standard requires that leaves be:

  1. From the first flush (Ichibancha) of spring

  2. Grown under shade (kabuse) for 20–30 days

Chagusaba fields are particularly well-suited for this. The mulch warms the soil earlier in the year, supporting more even growth during the shading period. The result? Leaves that are softer, richer in chlorophyll , and packed with umami precursors like glutamates and L-theanine .

Processing: Preserving What the Field Gives

From Tencha to Matcha: Low-Temperature Precision

Once picked, the leaves for premium ceremonial matcha must be processed into tencha with minimal degradation. Farmers using Chagusaba often employ low-temperature air drying systems:

  • Steaming halts oxidation within seconds

  • Air-drying without rolling preserves leaf integrity

  • De-stemming and de-veining ensure clarity in taste

Finally, tencha is stone-ground at a rate of 30–40g/hour. Faster grinding would generate heat, damaging the tea’s aroma and nutrients. Chagusaba-grown tea, already more aromatic due to soil health and shade, shines under this careful process.

Chemical and Sensory Characteristics

How Chagusaba Farming Influences Composition

Studies conducted by Japan’s National Agriculture and Food Research Organization (NARO) and Kyoto Prefecture Agricultural Institute indicate that matcha grown under Chagusaba conditions shows:

  • Increased L-theanine (20–30 mg/g)

  • Suppressed catechins (which create bitterness)

  • Higher chlorophyll levels (for vibrant color)

  • Lower nitrate accumulation due to organic cycling

Taste and Texture

Matcha grown this way is:

  • Visibly brighter and more jade-like

  • Smoother in texture, with fewer particles

  • Umami-rich, with almost no after-bitterness

  • Aromatically complex, including marine and floral notes

The Cultural and Economic Importance

Tradition Meets Sustainability

The Chagusaba Method is not merely a farming choice; it’s a cultural commitment. Families like the Otsuka Tea Garden have preserved this method for generations, understanding that maintaining traditional knowledge also secures long-term soil fertility and resilience to climate shifts.

Farmers report:

  • 30–50% less fertilizer use

  • Stronger resistance to disease

  • Higher scoring in international tea competitions

Shizuoka matcha produced this way has begun winning over connoisseurs in the West, where "premium ceremonial matcha" is both a marketing term and a bridge to deeper understanding.

Final Thoughts: A Living Heritage in Every Bowl

If you’ve ever wondered why one bowl of matcha tastes alive and another flat, the answer may lie in the field.

Premium ceremonial matcha is not just a product. When grown through the Chagusaba Method , it becomes an artifact of sustainable agriculture, sensory excellence, and cultural preservation.

As consumers increasingly look for authenticity and traceability, understanding the invisible systems behind their favorite foods becomes essential. In that light, Chagusaba is not just a technique. It is a quiet revolution in every sip.

References

  1. Yamamoto, T., Juneja, L. R., Chu, D. C., & Kim, M. (1997). Chemistry and Applications of Green Tea. CRC Press.

  2. Nakamura, Y., et al. (2009). "Effect of shaded tea cultivation on the content of theanine and catechins." Journal of Agricultural Science, 62(2), 145–152.

  3. Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO). (2013). Traditional Agricultural Systems: Matcha and Tencha Production in Japan. https://www.fao.org/giahs

  4. Interview with Otsuka Tea Garden, Kakegawa, 2024. Internal translation.

  5. Kyoto Prefecture Agricultural Institute. (2018). Matcha Chemical Composition Report. Internal research archive.


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The Author: Chang Liu

I’ve worked in food and beverage for over 25 years — sourcing, tasting, building. But matcha is different. It’s not just a drink. For me, it’s a quiet companion. A way to return. A soft light on the path of practice, one cup at a time.

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